The invention concerns a water-free cosmetic preparation. The preparation can be in the form of a lead for use in a pencil or a workable paste, which is suitable for cosmetic uses, in particular in the field of decorative cosmetics, for coloring, improving the appearance of and caring for keratinic materials such as for example the skin, semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the lips, the eyelids, the eyelashes and eyebrows and the surrounding area. By way of example mention may be made here of lipstick, lip rouge, blusher, lipliner, eyeliner, eyebrow pencils, kohl, kajal, makeup, effect party makeup, hair coloring pencil, mascara, hair mascara, masking pencil, concealer or eyeshadow.
It can also be used as a lip care pencil, lip balm, lip gloss, a fixing foundation for the lips, a care foundation for care of the skin or as a sun protection agent. Preferably the preparation according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic preparation, contains a combination of water-soluble, in particular easily water-soluble and lipid-soluble active substances which can be present in the form of an active substance complex which is especially adapted in respect of its action, referred to as an “active substance cocktail”. In this respect the expression “easily water-soluble” is used to denote those active substances of which at least 10 g per 100 g of water can be dissolved at ambient temperature—that is to say at 23+/−2° C.-. The preparation and in particular the cosmetic preparation is preferably present in water-free form.
A human being naturally has an inherent wish to appear beautiful or handsome and attractive and to interact with fellow human beings in as well-groomed and vital fashion as possible. Admittedly, as times pass, the ideal of beauty has undergone many different changes and the most widely varying fashion trends, but the aim of human beings was always to get as close as possible to a flawless ideal image. Therefore, besides clothing and decoration appearance and the state of the skin and the skin appendages played an essential part. In ancient times, as is known from early Egyptian wall paintings and from tomb excavations, it was important for human beings—and in particular the female gender—to optimize their external appearance by means of creative color designs. In the past a higher level of significance was evidently attributed to the color effect—if we believe the analyses of old finds—than compatibility and the presentday toxicological considerations—true indeed to the motto: “who wishes to be attractive must suffer”. National and international legal regulations however have in recent times eliminated ingredients of such preparations, which were recognized as being dangerous to the consumer.
Preparations of the specified kind usually contain lipids such as for example fats or greases, oils, oil-soluble plant extracts, saturated straight and/or branched-chain alcohols with chain lengths of between C3 and C40, saturated straight and/or branched-chain medium- to long-chain fatty acids with chain lengths of between C6 and C40 or those with at least one double bond whose esters and waxes which can be of vegetable or animal origin derive from mineral sources such as for example petroleum or were obtained by synthesis or chemical modification of the specified substances. It is also known to use silicon-organic compounds such as for example dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, volatile cyclomethicones, silicone waxes, silicone resins such as for example trimethyl siloxysilicate, a frequently used film-forming agent in what are referred to as “non-transfer” preparations and the like and/or mixtures thereof.
The preparation can additionally contain a solid phase or solids phase which comprises finely divided fillers and coloring agents or mixtures thereof. In the case of sun protection agents, it is possible to use in particular finely divided pigments, so-called nanopigments of an average particle size of between 5 and 25 nm, which have a transparent action on the skin and no longer color it. Mention may be made here by way of example of silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
It is also known to add to preparations, in particular cosmetic preparations of the specified kind, active substances which can exert positive topical actions or to which such an action is at least attributed. In accordance with the statutory requirements relating to cosmetics the action of active substances of that kind must be admittedly scientifically demonstrable, but on the other hand they may not be predominantly intended to heal or alleviate diseased states as then they would be subjected to the provisions of drug laws. The man skilled in the relevant art therefore treads a clearly very narrow dividing line and is required in that respect to research very intensively for active substances which are suitable for his purpose, and to draw a distinction from substances which are predominantly effective in terms of medical matters.
In production and processing of preferably water-free and lipid-bearing preparations of the specified kind, it is to be borne in mind that they can be exposed to elevated temperatures in the region around between 70 and 110° C. over prolonged periods of time—on the one hand when the raw materials are melted down and homogenized together with coloring agents and other additives and on the other hand when they are being put into their definitive form. In that respect the raw materials used are not to undergo chemical change, or are to undergo only a very slight chemical change, due to the action of heat and oxygen in the air. Raw substances of vegetable or animal origin, particularly when they include double bonds or conjugate double bonds in the carbon chain, have a tendency to experience rearrangement phenomena, additions, peroxide formation and the like, which can lead to adverse changes in terms of odor. Such changes can be induced or even accelerated in the manner of a catalyst action by the presence of certain pigments, in which respect mention may be made here by way of example of Manganese Violet (C I No 77742).
In general therefore cosmetic preparations are preferably produced in emulsion form, in particular if they contain water-soluble ingredients. It is then usual for the water-soluble ingredients to be dissolved in the aqueous phase and the lipid-soluble ingredients in the lipid phase and then for a stable emulsion to be produced from the two phases, possibly using emulsifiers, stabilizers and so forth. Aqueous systems generally require a preserving agent.
Now an object of the invention was to provide a preparation which contains active substances or an active substance system, wherein the active substance system comprise water-soluble and/or lipid-soluble active substances and wherein the preparation is stable, is easy to apply, adheres to the location of application and can possibly liberate the active substances contained therein at least in part with a delay.
A further object of the invention was to provide a water-free and lipid-bearing preparation which is in the form of a lead to be used in a pencil or a workable paste, which is suitable for cosmetic uses, in particular in the field of decorative cosmetics, for coloring and improving the appearance of keratinic materials such as for example the skin, semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the lips and the eyelids and the surrounding area, which can be easily applied, which has good lasting adhesion and which does not migrate or migrates only to a minimal extent from the original application location into the immediate surroundings. If the preparation is in pencil form, it is to be stable in respect of storage at different storage temperatures which can arise on the varying transportation routes and at the user himself and it is not to detrimentally change in terms of the properties of use and also—if it is in the form of a workable paste—it is not to exhibit any syneresis effects after prolonged storage and is also not to experience adverse reorganization in regard to the properties of use in the sense of changes in viscosity. In addition the invention aims to provide that this preparation can be applied in soft and workable fashion, it does not become tight on keratinic materials such as for example the skin, the semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the lips and the lids, and does not dry them out, it has good durable adhesion, as far as possible it does not transfer onto articles and textiles or other regions of the skin and in the immediate proximity of the eye it does not lead to irritation or other adverse sensations.
A further object of the invention was to provide the above-mentioned preparation at the same time with a selected active substance combination which is properly suited in a balanced fashion in the intended effect, in the form of an “active substance cocktail”, and further to supplement it in respect of its action by cleverly selected lipidic vegetable ingredients. Finally the invention seeks to provide a preparation of the specified kind which, besides decorative properties, has excellent care effects in the sense of an ongoing vitalizing, energy-providing effect of stimulating the micro-circulation and thus the skin substance transport effect. Those actions are intended finally to positively influence the overall image of the skin, improve the fine structure of the skin surface, reduce wrinkle depth and counteract fatigue phenomena and premature skin ageing. In modern linguistic usage those intended effects are also referred to as “vitalizing”, “energizing”, “anti-wrinkle” and “anti-age”.